On Time, and Eggplant
By Melissa Ward
Long ago is far away. Time, the poignant, irretrievable element of matter,
holds us always in its little pockets, right here, mercilessly. We cannot go
back and do any of it over, take anything out, add anything that now seems more
clever or appropriate.
With luck and certain advantages, we can do most things so that the
consequences of our actions are tolerable. Always there are things we wish
would have gone differently.
My son's first dentist, I wish I had choked him. I have carelessly lost an
address or two I wish I had today so that I would not feel a dear friend out in
the big world somewhere, dangling in my mind where we left off years ago.
Out of the past, which lies there warm and seething like a great compost pile,
full of decaying matter, shells and seeds of old things rotting into soil, cut
hair, blackening rinds, pits, crusts, scraps, bruised areas, discarded, the
everyday spoils all returned to chaos.
Out of this teeming mess, sprouts the incipient greenery of wisdom, our
personal savvy and ken, the insights and methods that we have learned and
tended and which define us explicitly. Our pearls of great price.
How can we forget them so easily? Why do we overlook them and relegate our
finest hours to the scrapbook and then let them slide away entirely?
Why do we shelve some of our best recipes for years at at time? Because we have
children. Children, moreover, who whine about eggplant. Who revile and avoid it
and seek shelter in other homes when it appears. Who engage in outbursts of
temper or indulge in long drawn out hissing noises or an array of the most
unseemly and contrived guttural moans at its mention. Who stoop to tossing
about intimations of abuse and love withdrawal at the very sight of that
flamboyant purple coat in the shopping bag.
Eggplant, they accuse, is slimy.
I have come to regret that I chose the easy path in this respect, and left many
a splendid eggplant to languish in the market with just a wistful glance over
my shoulder. How many of these cherubs, so mild and mutable inside, are left to
shrink and wither in their bins because, with no intention to offend, they are
inclined to ooze when cooked? Another mystery left unsolved.
But now that my children are tall and full of the hungers of the teen years, I
am encouraged -- by six o'clock they will eat almost anything and eggplant has
begun its triumphant return to our table via Eggplant Cutlets with Beautiful
Sauce. It is easy, quick, rich, very high in flavor, changeable with your mood
and supplies and even to the most critical palates, it circumvents the slime
factor.
First, make a breading--your own favorite or crumble in a blender:
3 - 4 slices of bread, broken into pieces (fresh, dry crusts, even saltines
work equally well)
Add to the crumbs:
1/4 C. Parmesan cheese
dashes of salt, pepper, paprika
1/4 tsp. dill weed
Pulse until you have a good, uniform mixture.
Leaving the skin intact, slice into 1/4" slabs:
1 large, glossy eggplant (1 1/2 #)
Spread each slice, both sides, with good real mayonnaise (not the sweetish
salad dressing unless you are solely committed to it). Dredge the slices
through the breading and pat it down gently.
You can do this much the night before, and feel commended.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the slices on an oiled baking sheet and
bake them for 20-30 minutes, or until they are golden and crisp on the outside
and tender on the inside. Test with a fork so you know for sure.
About ten minutes before they are done, arrange a thin, quizzical slice of red
pepper on each slice where it will roast nicely and add color.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce, sauté until almost limp in a little
butter:
1/2 a large onion
Add:
3-4 cloves fresh garlic, minced or pressed
Stir and cook very gently until the garlic is glazed but not brown, altogether
about 5-8 minutes.
Add, ad lib:
3/4 # sliced mushrooms
chopped celery
green or red peppers
Roma tomatoes
Sprinkle in:
1 Tbsp. flour
Cook, stirring, over medium heat, for another 5 minutes or so.
Now lower the heat and add:
1 1/2 C. plain lowfat yogurt (part buttermilk is fine) 3/4 C. blue Roquefort
cheese
a goodly dash of pepper
2 T. chopped fresh parsley
1/2 tsp. dill weed
salt to taste
1 T. fresh lemon juice.
Heat to thicken, stirring frequently.
Serve on top of the cutlets.
So go shopping and buy an eggplant, whose color even to that dry scholar, the
lexicographer, is bluer and deeper than burgundy.
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