Real Soup
By Melissa Ward
On the fleeting summer
The field is alive with blackbirds. Their shiny heads bob in the tall
grasses; short messages telegraph down from the scouts in the treetops
reporting on the activities of a non-threatening intruder.
The whole blue dome is full of light and birdsong. In the distance,
voices of children mingle in, discussing freedom and power. All together
it sounds like a message in code.
Spontaneous wildflowers have popped up all around my little sitting
place since I have been here last. A juvenile osprey pumps on toward the
old sunrise to find some thermals and to practice soaring; a flicker gets
to work on the shaggy trunk of a juniper, still young at a century.
It is the chig chig chig of the big sprinklers that brings us here,
all of us. Including some good frog rhythms on the outside edge.
It is abstract, this piece. Improvised. Non-sequential. The purest
subtle jazz.
And it is the early mild sun and the breeze, just a shimmer of it, and
the pale, sweet, green scent of summer that holds us all. Listening to
each other, watching for shifts in the rare and delicious atmosphere.
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A ripe sweet moment is an occasion
of note, an invitation we are right and proper to accept. Those blackbirds
might choose to incorporate one's presence and return, after all, moving
all thick and noisy like a loose scrap of cloth across the pasture.
Curious wrens might fly in very close and park in a coyote bush and
fix your gaze with one questioning eye at a time.
The seasonal peak, like any great and lovely phenomenon, is poignant
for all its endowed beauties. Revel now, warns the undercurrent; this will
not last.
Its warmth will turn to punishing heat and burn the grasses. Pollen
and dust will merge into twin evils, invading sensitive breathing avenues
with their pernicious irritants turning ordinary people into teary, dripping,
snorting, revolting, kleenex-toting nose conveyances.
Rapacious insects, full of hubris and other toxins, with their annoying
airs of prepossession, will search out blood and picnics at all the best
and secret tiny lakes, launching their shrewd machineries into delicate
human flesh in their annual bid for dominion.
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In the balance, mitigating summer's
inevitable rasp, crowning it's glories, is the long awaited, locally grown,
sun-ripened tomato.
After months of imported pink rubber substitutes, nothing causes greater
excitement in the produce market than the arrival of the wooden crates of
forgivably irregular, hot-scarlet Early Girls with their authentic juice
and flashy flavor.
One begins whipping up aioli and devouring tomato sandwiches for breakfast,
slicing them with Mozzarella and sweet onions and chopped fresh basil or
pesto or just vinaigrette for dinner. Or carrying them, whole and a cappella,
on hikes and lawn chair outings. And, truly, one needs to make, for at
least one memorable, completely seasonal meal, the queen of summer soups,
the Andalusian delight, Gazpacho.
Since this recipe is my husband's, you may detect in it if you will,
his enjoyment of ultimates, as well as the undertone of courtship and drama
which pervade his cooking, and which are so sublime in a chilled soup on
a feverish afternoon.
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Begin a day or two ahead, or at least
in the morning, to allow for proper chilling and blending of flavors. In
a blender or food processor, combine:
3 large fresh ripe tomatoes, peeled if you like
1/2 large cucumber, peeled and chopped
1/2 medium mild onion
1/4 green pepper, quartered
1 pimiento, drained, optional
1/2 C. canned tomato juice
Blend to puree the vegetables. Put this mixture into a half-gallon
jar or other good-sized container and add:
2 1/2 C. tomato juice (24 oz. total)
1/4 C. good quality olive oil
1/3 C. red wine-vinegar
1/2 tsp liquid hot sauce (more if you like)
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
1-2 cloves garlic, split
Refrigerate this mixture, covered, at least two hours. It keeps for
days if kept cold, improving with time. If you have room, chill soup bowls,
too.
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When you are ready to serve, chop
and offer, in separate bowls, the remainders of the vegetables used in the
soup, chopped fairly fine. Add 1-2 additional fresh tomatoes for a lavish
spread, and perhaps some home made croutons with garlic and herbs, some
freshly snipped chives and good deep plain yogurt for a feast.
This is a simple offering, so vivid and quick, moral and low calorie,
a majestic tonic, equal to the restless simmer and swat of midsummer evenings. |